I hope you've enjoyed our Greek island cruise as we've explored just three of the countless islands that make the Aegean Sea such a popular destination. Wear good shoes, and bring sun protection and plenty of water. To protect Christian pilgrims on their way to Jerusalem, and provide hospitals for their care. Its main town, also called Hydra, is home to about 90 percent of the island's 3,000 residents. Rick: This is a healthy diet. After 14 centuries of silence and darkness, it was finally excavated in the late 1800s, and today, the ruins of Delos are ours to explore. Viewpoints here are some of the most striking in the Greek seas, as tourists clamber for just the right angle. It’s great traveling in Greece during the shoulder season — the days are lovely and warm (not hot) and the crowds are few. This time I thought I'd take you on a little cruise. Fira is the island's commercial and transportation hub. It never recovered and was eventually abandoned. At the end of the walk, prime Acropolis-view real estate is dedicated to the fine art of café sitting. A humble Greek Orthodox chapel celebrates that visit to this day. This extraordinary collection lets you follow the sweep of Greek art history from 7000 BC to 300 AD. All the parts were there in geometrical, if not biological perfection. The flow of people into the sprawling city continues, and four million people — roughly one out of every three Greeks — call Athens home. In the 1960s, the island became a favorite retreat for artists and writers, who still draw inspiration from its idyllic surroundings. Statues looked more lifelike. And apart from coming here to consult the oracle, the other reason was also because, like in Olympia they had the Olympic Games, here in Delphi we had the Pythian Games. Guide: Those two are the Kameni Islands. It's an exciting springboard for the Greek Isles. Once again, when it was first pedestrianized merchants were upset. Huge granite cannon balls littering the grounds are a reminder of why it was said that when the Turks attacked, cannon balls rained down on the city. The Parthenon was perhaps the finest temple in the ancient world. Hydra is popular with walkers, who come to explore the network of ancient paths that link the island's outlying settlements, churches, and monasteries. No individual features — everything was idealized. Just a few years ago, this street was a car-clogged mess. And, with a little luck, you can make a friend and be invited in — or, in this case — up onto the roof — for a pleasant chat and a cup of strong Greek coffee. The Stoa of Attalos, from the second century BC, was rebuilt in modern times to house the Agora's museum. The island's main city, also called Rhodes, was one of the great cities of antiquity. This stunning bronze statue, cast in 460 BC, depicts the mighty god of the sea about to hurl his trident. The lime that makes the whitewash is a good antiseptic — villagers knew it would naturally disinfect the rainwater that was collected on rooftops. Rick: So she would babble and the priests would say this is wisdom from the gods. From there we side-trip to the oracle of Delphi and then cruise from Athens' port of Piraeus to the island of Hydra. Twelve new episodes include Portugal (Lisbon and the country's heartland), the … This stately square was part of a grand project designed to turn the town a suitable capital for the new nation. If visiting by cruise ship, it's smart to get an early start. Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Posted by Nigel. While tourism dominates the economy, Mykonos still has a traditional charm thickly layered with white stucco, blue trim, and colorful bougainvillea. The Kameni Islands are actually made of lava rock. In a few minutes they're pulling up the gangway and I'm back on the ship. With little building material on the island, it just made sense to dig into the cliffs. Athens and Side-Trips - Video - Rick Steves' Europe For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . Welcome aboard! At the top of town, the humble Taverna Leonidas has been around so long it doesn't need a sign. Innovative cisterns collected rain water — these round arches date from the third century BC. At the foot of the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora (or "marketplace") sprawls out from its surviving temple. They're clad in the traditional pleated kilt and pom-pom shoes made famous by the evzones. Rick: Spinach pie. You can do the archaeological site and the museum in either order. Some of those first government buildings — built in the prevailing Neoclassical style — still survive today. Back outside the walls, the city beach sprawls in a beautiful arc away from the harbor. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | So for more than 2,000 years, water has come out of this well. These Mycenaean soldiers — with their yellow-ribbon moms — are a timeless off-to-war scene, repeated every generation in the 3,000 years since. Culture thrived here, enough to keep this theater — which could seat 6,000 — busy. Exploring each island under the reliable sun, we'll compare beaches from the ultimate party beach…to quieter, more idyllic hideaways. Antonis is an excellent local guide who enjoys introducing visitors to the hidden nooks and crannies of Mykonos. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. It was built in the 19th century by people from the tiny Cycladic island of Anafi. At the top end, a 500-year-old minaret marks the Mosque of Süleyman the Magnificent. We're riding a Flying Dolphin — one of the fleet of speedy hydrofoils that zip from Athens to the islands, and from island to island. A trove of funerary art from the royal tombs of Mycenae shows treasures from a society that thrived around 1000 years before the days of Socrates and Plato. Like other hilltop sights in the ancient Greek world, Athens' Acropolis (or "high city") was both a place of worship and of refuge when under attack. While Rick Steves Greece covers a few islands (Hydra, Mykonos and nearby Delos, and Santorini), most travelers headed to more islands will want to supplement their Rick Steves book with a guide to the islands (we recommend Lonely Planet Greek Islands). A delightful way to cap the day is to follow the coastal path to the village of Kaminia. Its superb harbor is surrounded by an amphitheater of rocky hills. Penny: Zeus wanted to know where the center of the world was. The homes of sea captains, whose wealth came from trade, are now fancy hotels and gift shops. This is a stop that lends itself to unstructured free time — just lazing on the beach, wandering, and browsing the shops. Agios Sostis, an old hippie beach at the north end of the island, has none of the thumping party energy of Paradise Beach. See, you can eat them! Wealthy shipping merchants built this row of fine mansions with brightly painted wooden balconies that seem to rise out of the sea. As in many Greek island towns, on Mykonos the windmills have harnessed the steady wind for centuries — grinding grain to feed its sailors. Greek architecture evolved in stages. Today tourists zigzag up the ancient Sacred Way to the Temple of Apollo. From Athens, we sail into the Aegean Sea. Santorini is a dramatic island — the rim of a volcanic crater with spectacular vistas. Because the priests debriefed those seeking advice on the state of their homelands, Delphi became the data base of the ancient world. already booked 2022 tour Greece with Viking and need to combine with Rick Steves Greece tour. It was a hundred feet tall and polished bronze. The two main attractions — the archaeological site (officially called the "Sanctuary of Apollo") and the Archaeological Museum — are about a half-mile east of the modern town of Delphi. In the morning, we'll be in Santorini. Donkeys rather than cars, the shady awnings of well-worn cafés, and memorable seaside views all combine to make it clear you found your Greek isle. Destroyed by the Ottoman Turks, it was rebuilt in a fanciful style just a century ago. Cruising is designed for the masses, and it has its pros and cons. About a century before Christ, Delos was devastated by a terrible war. I've left our bus tour early for a rendezvous with a private local guide. There's no right or wrong — it depends entirely on your mood and your style. Unlike most ancient sites, which have layer upon layer of ruins from different periods, the Acropolis we see today was started and finished within two generations — a snapshot of the Golden Age set in stone. Rick: 30,000? The adjacent Erechtheion is famous for its Porch of the Caryatids, six beautiful maidens functioning as columns. Dimitris: Well, we have here a Greek salad and a Santorini salad. In the extreme south of Europe is Greece. This museum is a great way to either start or finish off your sightseeing through Greece. So she was in trance. These "cave houses," surrounded by air-filled pumice, are naturally insulated — staying cool in summer and warm in winter. A tidy embankment is so pretty they call it "Little Venice." Thanks for joining us. Tour Account — View and manage tour details. In this sampler of Greek isles we'll enjoy their fascinating history, inviting beaches, and dramatic beauty. It's the perfect companion to the Rick Steves Greece: Athens & the Peloponnese guidebook! Because Santorini's pier is small, giant cruise ships drop anchor and tender their passengers in on small shuttle boats. The worst lines are caused by the bottleneck of people trying to squeeze into the site through the Propylaea gate. If you prefer a quieter scene, more remote beaches are a short drive farther out. In fact, these archaic statues were named simply kouros (meaning "boy"), or kore (meaning "girl"). See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. And souvlaki is meat on a skewer — shish-kebab style. While the Acropolis was the ceremonial showpiece, the Agora was the real heart of ancient Athens. There's a range of beaches on Mykonos. This, rather than the Parthenon, was the culmination of the Panatheniac Procession. The Plaka district provides tourists with a more intimate Athens: no chaotic traffic, lots of colorful restaurants, and the best souvenir shopping in all of Greece. The black sand is a reminder of the island's volcanic origin. Individuals go to the tiny "old harbor," where they can ride a donkey up the zig-zag trail, or hop a cable car up to the scenic lip of the island crater. This time I thought I'd take you on a little cruise. We'll tour the must-sees of ancient Athens: the Parthenon, Agora, and amazing National Archaeological Museum. During this time, the golden mean was "nothing in excess." The Ottoman Turks finally defeated the Knights of St. John in the 1500s. We have a single DVD that includes all five ELCA videos I’ve done so far (two hours of programming). Statues from this age — around 600 BC — all had the same standard features: weight spread evenly on two feet, arms rigid at the side, stiff braided hair, almond-shape eyes, high eyebrows, and the same quirky little grins. Arrive early or late to avoid the crowds and midday heat. The country's leading families built mansions here to be close to the king. The evolution of Greek art from stiff to realistic to emotional would be echoed by Europe 2,000 years later: from stiff Gothic to realistic Renaissance, to emotional Baroque. Today these mansions have been refitted as restaurants and bars for tourists enjoying fresh fish and romantic views. While we could fly or take a local ferry, this time our mode of transportation is a cruise ship. The oracle became so influential that no great leader would make a major decision without first sending emissaries to consult the oracle. If it's hot or raining, do the museum first to hedge your bets for better conditions for the site. The final order, Corinthian — popular later on with the Romans — features leafy capitals…boldly decorative with no apologies necessary. Its wild, mountainous landscape has hosted the interminable rise and fall of cultures which makes for fascinating sightseeing today. During the Archaic period, all the parts were there, but if it decided to walk, it would walk like a monster, stiffly with no understanding of the subtle interplay between hips and shoulders. Five mills still stand, perfectly positioned to catch the prevailing breeze. Along with its beaches, Mykonos offers a major historic attraction. They were also called the "Knights of St. John Hospitallers." So, they honored Helios by building a colossal statue. We're sailing to three iconic Greek islands: Santorini, Mykonos, and Rhodes. This book focuses on Athens and a couple islands so please verify it covers the areas you are interested in. see our FAQ. Dazzling mansions of wealthy merchants with colonnaded inner courtyards. I'm glad I'm packing light as I hike up to my hotel. With the crush of the crowds, the limited time, and the scattered array of interesting sights, investing in a bus tour like this to see Santorini can make sense. Rick: So a balance of things. But, even with four ships in the harbor today, there seems to be plenty of room. So we've got the theater, we've got the stadium…. I'm Rick Steves. We'll start up there, at the historic, cultural, and literal high point of any trip to Athens — the Acropolis. Today, people pour out of the city's busiest subway station into this café-filled square. The most trendy is Paradise, one of the ultimate party beaches in the Aegean. The town stretches away from the harbor — a maze of narrow, cobbled streets, flanked by whitewashed homes. For meals, you can sit out on the shady covered side terrace above the harbor — check the chalkboard to see what's freshest today. The knights then retreated hundreds of miles west to the island of Malta, where they built an even more fortified headquarters. And there was more to Delphi than just the oracle. And tonight the place is all ours, as our enthusiastic cook welcomes us into his kitchen. Rick Steves says it’s time to go to Greece and we’re going to Ithaca for our June Greek Island Yoga Retreat. In Athens, it seems all roads pass through Syntagma Square. Rhodes is built upon layers of civilizations — Italian, Greek, and Turkish, with a dash of medieval Crusader lore from all over Europe tossed in. Walk in the steps of Socrates, test the acoustics of the amphitheater of Epidavros, and set … The iconic row of sphinx-like lions still heralds the importance of the place. For drinks, sit out front on the porch. In the next order, Ionic, the capitals are decorated with understated scrolls. Until next time, keep on travelin'. Rhodes, or "Rhodos," as locals call it, is the fourth largest of the Greek islands. Subtle interplay between hips and shoulders. Rick: So tell me why this place was chosen for the oracle. Because of that the priests here were actually able to astound those who came with their wise, believably divine, advice. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, And those once-formidable walls now seem only to protect a fun-loving tourists' mecca and a vibrant artist's colony. The windy roads feel like a fairground racetrack for tourists, busy with an array of easy-to-rent vehicles. Giddy-up! Here are a few more photos from my recent TV shoot in Greece — one of several countries included in my upcoming Rick Steves’ European Easter public television special.. With each port you've got sightseeing options: You can take the organized tour and be on their time table, or, you can hire a private guide. Ancient Greece set the tone for all Western art that followed, and this museum lets you trace its evolution — taking you in air-conditioned comfort from 7000 BC to AD 500 through beautifully displayed and described exhibits on one floor. Ancient Greeks celebrated the human body. With all its traffic congestion above and nearly a million Athenians zipping smoothly underground every day, the system is a godsend. This Colossus of Rhodes was one of the "seven wonders" of the ancient world. Originally protecting a temple of Athena, today the acropolis is mostly the crumbling remains of a Crusader fortress built by the Knights of St. John. The real attraction here is the beaches. And today, in the midst of all this rich heritage, the vibrant capital of Greece still thrives. While less balanced and composed, it was a more individualistic age — with more exuberant and emotional art. Buoyant after winning freedom from its Turkish overlords, the new capital city flourished. This time it's all Greek to me…and that's exactly why we're here. Other than one very well-preserved temple and a rebuilt stoa, it's a field of humble ruins. Ermou Street, leading away from Syntagma, is a thriving pedestrian mall. Rick: These salads look delicious. May 30, 2016 - Explore Sandra Kent's board "Rick Steves" on Pinterest. Presided over by hotels that run bars for young beachgoers, the Paradise action is nonstop. Grand processions followed the Panathenaic Way, which was a ceremonial path connecting the town below and the Acropolis. With my favorite irresistible dinner views on Hydra, this scenic spot lets you watch the sun dip gently into the Saronic Gulf, with Kaminia's adorable port in the foreground. Late in the day, as the sun goes down, the white Parthenon stone gleams a creamy golden brown, and what had been a tourist war zone is suddenly peaceful. Gyro means "turning" — referring to the slowly spinning round of meat — roasted pork or chicken — shaved as needed. Rick: Very nice. You must have cookies enabled to use the Rick Steves Travel Store. The king gave a speech from this balcony, granting his people — whose ancestors invented the concept — democracy. Once a complete island like its neighbors, it was a volcano that about 3,500 years ago blew its top, creating a caldera — this flooded crater. Ancient Greeks believed that this easternmost point of the Greek world, where the rising sun first kissed Greek soil, was the home of the sun god, Helios. They came here to the big city looking for work. Two hundred years ago, Athens was just a humble town of about 8,000 huddled at the base of the Acropolis. It's on an uninhabited neighboring island, a 30-minute shuttle-boat ride away. Golden Age sculptors shifted weight more believably, placing their statues in a contrapposto pose — that means relaxed, with hips shifted realistically and weight resting on one foot. At the tiny church built to bless those who go to sea, a fisherman and his wife pop in for a few meditative moments among age-old icons and flickering candles. Thanks for the validation Rick Steves! Assuming a sunny floating resort is what you're looking for, cruising can be both economical and efficient — especially when lacing together far-flung islands within a limited vacation schedule. Rhodes then became part of the Ottoman Empire for several centuries. My favorite: a gyro pita — slice up that meat, toss in a little salad, tsatstiki (a garlic yogurt sauce), and spices…all wrapped in a handy cone of toasted pita bread. Walk once around fast for a time-lapse effect, then go around again for a closer look. In fact, Socrates spent much of his life right here preaching the virtues of "nothing in excess," and urging those around him to "know thyself.". Whether from Spain, France, or Germany, each group built its own headquarters here to feel like home. We're catching one for a windy survey of the island and to be dropped off for a scenic hike back into town. In addition to town walks and tours of the Delos archaeological site, he enjoys leading a 2.5-hour "Food on Foot" town walk around Mykonos, with tasting stops, and an all-day "Ambrosial Mykonos" experience, including a town walk and a drive around the island to an artisanal creamery, brewery, and vineyard, plus a beach break. Cruise ships await their passengers. The earliest style, Doric, has flat, practical plates as capitals. This Warrior Vase, from the 12th century BC, shows women gathered to wave goodbye to a group of warriors heading off to war — sporting fancy armor with duffle bags hanging from their spears. Penny: There was a priestess inside the Temple and right underneath it there was this room where she was inhaling vapors evaporating from the ground. Santorini is small, driving is fun, and traffic is sparse. And it packed as many as 7,000 sports fans into its stadium. The Easter greeting here in Greece, “Kalo Pascha,” literally means “good passing” — a passing from sadness (the Crucifixion) to happiness (the Resurrection). In 1843, a riotous crowd jammed this square demanding a syntagma (or "constitution"). From Piraeus boats depart for points throughout the Aegean Sea. Hydra was a Greek naval power famous for its shipbuilders. The 80-year period from about 480 to 400 BC is known as the Golden Age of Greece — the age of Socrates and Pericles — and Athens was the center. As the nearest Greek island to the Holy Land, Rhodes was a natural gathering point for Crusaders from all over Europe. Of Santorini's many beaches, Kamari is one of the best. I find the ports are least crowded and most relaxed and enjoyable during that last hour. Seeing it today is awe-inspiring but imagine how striking it must have looked when it was completed nearly 2,500 years ago — in all its carved and brilliantly painted splendor. Colorfully costumed evzone guards stand at attention at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and periodically do a ceremonial changing of the guard to the delight of tourists (guards change five minutes before the top of each hour, less elaborate crossing of the guard around :25 after, full ceremony with marching band Sundays at 11:00—get there early as they may start a bit before 11:00). It's fast but less scenic, as the passengers are stuck inside. Antonis: You can still drink if you want. It was still a Rick Steves’ tour…but with a plush and shady rooftop, a scholar guide (Colin Clement) and me on vacation with Anne. Dimitris: This is the Mediterranean diet. Being on the top deck as you approach the day's destination gives you a quiet, bird's eye view. The famed statue called the "Colossus of Rhodes" once towered above the city. The path is flanked by the remains of Delphi's famous treasuries — monuments erected by city-states in gratitude for the oracle's advice. The island of Delos is a 30-minute boat ride from Mykonos; boats depart three times each morning and return to Mykonos three times afternoon — and in peak season a late-afternoon boat may run as well (boat schedules can change depending on weather, cruise-ship arrivals and departures, and other factors). This idyllic ensemble of whitewashed houses and characteristic domes is delicately draped over a steep slope at the top of a cliff. Crowds and weather might help you decide. This elegant walkway is a popular pedestrian boulevard arcing around the back of the Acropolis. This place has been known as Constitution Square or Syntagma Square ever since. Leonidas: Yeah the shrimps, green shrimps with the oil and lemon sauce. Lindos is the most beautiful town on the island. One of the Mediterranean's great king-of-the-mountain thrills. Greece Travel Guide by Rick Steves For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . Local guides demonstrate still-working wells. Or, the Luther program is available free at Youtube–search rick steves luther.) In a few scenic minutes we're across the island. ..helps prepare you to better appreciate the actual he-her-historic sites…. Many of these dwellings originated as humble caves. This is where, for 3,000 years, Athenians gathered. Click here for more information on how to enable cookies. For some 800 years, starting in the sixth century BC, this was the hub of commercial, political, and social life. The island of Rhodes, while arid, is fun to explore. From Athens to Mount Ararat, join Rick as he meets the people and explores the ancient sites of Greece and Turkey. Gradually these cheapest bits of real estate were developed, and, with tourism, they became today's expensive villas, hotels, and restaurants. Its main street — thronged with tourists whenever there's a cruise ship in the bay — seems like little more than a long line of shops, cafés, and restaurants, all with staggering views. It's Athens. 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